Day 17 - Ferocious Headwinds and Dangerous Highways

We left Shenendoah this morning with trepidation for what the weather might do. The sun was burning red through the morning fog and clouds with a heavy moisture still hanging in the air. The temperature was lingering in the 70's as it does most mornings, leaving us little to go by. As we pedaled deeper into Iowa a few things became prominent: 1) Iowa is VERY hilly 2) Iowa does not pave the shoulders of its highways 3) Iowa drivers ARE NOT courteous. If I have any advice for any bicyclist riding across the country it is DO NOT RIDE THROUGH IOWA! It is not safe for bicyclists here. The highways are incredibly dangerous! Their is absolutely no shoulder! Drivers do not hesitate to honk and drive you off the road, or pass within a foot at highway speeds! It is very scary to be on the roads here. This has been by far the most stressful part of this trip, and is the only one I have been really looking forward to being done with. Even 112 degree days do not come close to the anxiety and fear that we are experiencing riding on these roads. Here is a short video. I whipped out my camera because this truck was blaring it's horn as it was driving up behind me. Typically that had only happened when I'd been run off of the road so I grabbed my camera, only soon enough to get this short clip as the truck flew by and the wind blew me off the road.

With that said the countryside here is nice. The landscape is a cross between the high hills of Wyoming, and the relative flat topography of Nebraska. We lucked out again with the weather. The morning was a bit muggy but the temperature hung in the 70's and 80's throughout the day. But a headwind kept our progress to a slow minimum. A 20-30 mph wind blew directly in our faces all day long. It drove us backwards, up hill, as we tried to speed down. Usually tapping out at 13-17 mph. That was top speed while PEDALING downhill!

Now we are in Creston, IA. We're camping in McKinley Park, having just had a shower at the town pool, ready for a good night sleep, and an early morning. We heard a rumor that for 30 miles or so we will have a shoulder tomorrow. A much desired promise.